Amyris Solid Perfume: A Pocket Balm Recipe
A solid perfume is a little wax, a liquid oil and a little fragrance, poured into a tin and dabbed on at the wrists. Amyris suits it well because it is a base note, and base notes are what you want close to skin. The one decision that shapes everything else is how strong to make it, so we start there.
Amyris Essential Oil
Our own Amyris Essential Oil, in sizes from 0.5 oz to bulk.
From $23.99
Shop Now →Why we keep it at 3%
Fine fragrance runs much stronger than a skin balm. One retailer lists eau de parfum at 10% to 20% and parfum at 20% to 35%, and says these are averages because no law fixes them (Perfume Lounge). Copying those numbers into a home balm would put several times more essential oil on your skin than the Tisserand Institute's range for body oils and lotions, which is 1% to 3% (Tisserand Institute). So we cap a first batch at 3% total essential oil. At that strength the scent sits close and personal, which is how a solid perfume is meant to be worn.
The 30 g formula
| Ingredient | Grams | Share | Where to find it |
|---|---|---|---|
| Beeswax pastilles | 9.0 | 30% | Soap and candle supplier |
| Jojoba oil | 20.1 | 67% | Carrier oil seller |
| Amyris essential oil | 0.54 | 1.8% | Our shop |
| Lavender essential oil | 0.21 | 0.7% | Essential oil seller |
| Geranium essential oil | 0.15 | 0.5% | Essential oil seller |
The three oils total 0.9 g, which is 3% of 30 g. The 30 to 67 wax to oil split is a starting point for a firm but spreadable balm. If the tin is too hard to scrape, move a gram of wax over to oil, and do the reverse if it is too soft.
For drops, our certificate of analysis for one batch gives a density of 0.952 g/ml. At the rough convention of 20 drops per ml, a drop weighs about 0.048 g, so 0.54 g is about 11 drops. Weighing beats counting, but drops will do in a pinch. There is no water here, so no preservative is needed. Do not add hydrosol or aloe without a proper preservative system.
Making it
- Wash the tin, jug and spoon, and let everything dry fully.
- Melt the wax and jojoba together in a heatproof jug set in hot water, never over direct heat, and stir until clear.
- Take it off the heat and let it cool until a thin film starts to form at the edge. Hot oil lets the lighter scents escape.
- Stir in the essential oils for a full minute and pour straight into the tin.
- Leave it undisturbed until firm, then close the lid and label it with the date and ingredients.
A few small tips make the first batch easier. Set the tin on a flat, steady surface before you pour, because the wax sets quickly and a tilted tin gives a slanted top. As it cools the surface may sink slightly in the middle, and a thin second pour over the top evens it out. Keep a clean spoon handy to scrape wax from the jug while it is still warm, since it is hard to remove once it sets.
Small lidded tins are easy to find at craft and soap-making suppliers. Pick one with a snug lid, since a balm that lives in a pocket or a bag needs to stay closed.
Judging the scent
Amyris is creamy, woody and balsamic with a soft vanilla undertone, and it is the biggest part of the fragrance here. Beeswax adds its own honeyed note, so judge the finished balm on your wrist after a day, not the warm mix on a blotter. A woody base can help the lighter oils linger, which is why amyris is called a fixative in perfumery. Our post on natural perfume fixatives looks at what that really means.
When you test the balm, swipe a fingertip across the surface once and look at what you pick up. The wax should soften at the warmth of your skin without turning greasy. Dab it at the inside of a wrist rather than rubbing it in, and you will notice the scent opens quietly and stays close. Because it is an oil and wax balm, it smells softer than a spray, which is exactly the point.
A tin of solid perfume also makes a pleasant small gift. Write the ingredients and the date on the label, tuck a handwritten note about how to use it inside the wrapping, and remind the person to try a patch test first.
Before the first wear
Patch test on the inner forearm for 24 hours (our guide explains why a clear patch is a screen, not a guarantee). Keep the balm away from eyes, children and pets. If you have eczema, a history of fragrance allergy or are pregnant, ask a dermatologist, allergist or midwife first. This formula leaves out citrus peel on purpose, since those oils have sun related limits; see phototoxic oils before adding any.
Storage, and a note on selling
Keep the tin away from heat and light and make small batches, because oils can still go rancid even without water. The unopened essential oil typically keeps 4 to 6 years in a cool, dark place, but a finished balm should be treated as shorter lived. If you plan to sell it, you will need a safety assessment and proper labelling; amyris in perfumery covers the rules. For a liquid version, try roll on perfume.
Amyris Essential Oil
Amyris Essential Oil from our own shop, in sizes from 0.5 oz to bulk.
From $23.99
Shop Now →Sources & Further Reading
- Perfume Lounge. Eau de toilette, eau de parfum and parfum: what is the difference? perfumelounge.eu
- Tisserand Institute. Essential oil dilution. tisserandinstitute.org/safety/dilution
